Last year is definitely the year of vitamin C in the field of skin care. The industry was carried away by active ingredients with proven effectiveness, and vitamin C of them is the most obvious, because the effect from it is visible almost immediately, and it is difficult to damage the skin with it.
In vitamin C, when it interacts with the skin, three basic properties manifest themselves. Collagen production is increased, that is, rejuvenation occurs, enzymes responsible for pigment production are suppressed, that is, pigmentation (including post-acne) is reduced and the skin is cleared, and free radicals are cleared – unstable molecules, which, according to many researchers, are involved in the process of destruction cells of the skin and promote its aging.
Vitamin C in cosmetics called the whole group of substances, but most often use ascorbic acid – in the composition, it is designated as ascorbic acid. To date, this form is the most studied, inexpensive, effective, but also the most unstable, it is quickly destroyed in the light and in aqueous solutions. Other forms of vitamin C are derivatives of ascorbic acid. They are much more stable (some do not break at all in the sun and in water), but at the same time much less effective. The name of these substances is usually the word ascorbyl, for example, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
The effectiveness of active ingredients often depends on concentration, but in the case of vitamin C, there is no certainty in this matter. It is believed that ascorbic acid acts even at low concentrations (about 5%) and its effectiveness improves with increasing concentration, but only up to 20%. True, the higher the percentage, the more aggressive the means and the more likely it is to get irritated. If the skin is not sensitive, agents with 5-15% of the substance usually do not cause irritation, but at higher rates can provoke. Breakthrough Mark The Ordinary produces two products with a very high concentration of ascorbic acid: Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone and Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. They, of course, perfectly cope with their tasks, but may cause redness and peeling.
The ideal product with vitamin C comes in a dark, sealed package, and there is no water in the ingredients list. Unfortunately, there are practically no such products on the market today. But do not be in a hurry to get upset – it does not mean that the funds in other packaging and with other staff do not work.
Perhaps, the most effective for today funds with vitamin C make “cosmeceutical” brands. These are the ones that can not be found in online stores. New for Russia Canadian brand Rejudicare produces just three serums: simple, with peptides and with salicylic acid.
Brand Phyto-C and does specialize in vitamin C: its founder came up with a technology through which the component is better preserved and works. In Phyto-C you can find serums with different concentrations of vitamin and with various additional effects – from moistening to exfoliation.
Among pharmacy brands, an excellent product with vitamin C produces La Roche Posay – Redermic C10 – in very good packaging with a thin nose and with 10% ascorbic acid. The effect from it is noticeable in a couple of days: the skin looks healthier and rested.
Most often, serum is made with vitamin C, but one can meet masks and exfoliating agents. The REN brand produces a product called Flash Rinse, which makes the skin radiant in one minute. When applied, there is a feeling that you have powdered yourself with ascorbic acid, but then the product dissolves, and after washing, the skin becomes smoother and more beautiful. A similar thing, but with a less pronounced effect is offered by the Australian brand Ultraceuticals Ultra Dual Microfoliant. It also needs to be applied, massaged and washed off after a while.